From Marathon there is an 80 mile majestic drive through Bigs Bend’s 3000 acres of dessert and mountains. We decided to stay for 4 nights in total, 2 nights in Rio Grande and 2 nights in Chisos Basin. The camp area in Rio Grande was clean, well kept and peaceful and lots of trails nearby. There are quite a few smaller trails around here up to about 3 miles, we did not fancy anything longer as the temperature on average 116OF by 3pm. Lots. wildlife spotting around Rio Grande including Road Runners, Rattlesnakes, tarantulas, white tailed deer, jackalopes, Javelinas and all sorts of different birds. Hands down my favourite were the road runners, coolest birds ever as they run real fast, at baby rattlesnakes and are more than happy running by your feet in camp. Black bears and mountain lions in Chisos basin can also be seen, but we missed them. Not that you want to see a mountain lion because chances are if you see one its known you have been there for a while and is stalking you, not good.
As there is no light pollution in Big Bend Park and it is still light from the moon outside until about 4am, if you can wake up and go and look at the stars, I never realised there were so many. The store has things you need, the only showers in the whole of big bend and laundry facilities. A 30 mile drive west leads you into the Chisos basin which is definitely the most popular area to stay, arrive a bit earlier or you will find it hard to find a spot with shade (you will definitely need shade). Again there are loads of trails ranging from 1-10 miles. My favourite one was the Window Trail at the sunset, time is right and the sunset. A couple we met on their way back said that they saw a mama bear with her two cubs on the path ahead, but we missed them. A good spot to watch the sunset it either on the patio of the lodge (where you can charge up and use wifi) or walk the 0.4 mile to the window overlook. The last day we did the 100ish mile scenic drive to the castilo canyon stopping along the various trails and overlooks along the way. In the canyon is beautiful and as the river was low weeven walked across to Mexico. It does get awfully hot into the sheltered canyon and its a fairly steep walk up/down in the heat so take plenty of water, by 12pm it was too hot and we had to get back to the car fairly quickly to find shade, an older gentlemen and his daughter were behind us and he was in real trouble coming back but made it.
The drive out of Big Bend north on the 118, the first town you come across is Study Butte where you can get petrol as its super expensive in Big Bend. A short distance after is the turning for Terlingua ghost town. The town’s shop opens at 10am and you can get a map for a self guided walking tour. The town was abandoned by miners and in the 70s a few people started to move back in. There are some interesting characters around, we met Dr Doug who gave us loads of info about the history and was the ‘chamber of commerce’ for the town, he has lived in Terlingua for 40 years. The town hosts an eannual chilli event in November but unfortunately it’s May so we were a bit early.
We pushed on north to Alpine, there are a few cool murals, an old school cinema and Martha’s Raspa cafe where you can get a snow cone to beat the heat.
Marfa has a great art scene and a young vibe about the place for a small dessert town. Minimalist artist Donald Judd moved to Marfa in the 1970s and it has carried on being arty ever sinse. We stayed in a kitschy campground alled El Cosmica, you can rent tents, retro trailers, wigwams or just pay to put up your tent.there are outdoor showers/toilets and kitchen. The shower took a bit of getting used to as it had lots of gaps where anyone could see you but was actually liberating and refreshing. Also in the camp was a large photography workshop who made John and I pose for them and we met a fellow traveller called Mark who we frequently the local dive bar with to enjoy $1 draft beers and free pool…. $1 for a BEER!
Feeling a bit worse for wear in the morning we stopped at Marfa’s Burrito Walking in you realise that you are walking into a room in her house and that your order is limited to how much Spanish you speak. Luckily John can speak Spanish so were able to order a chorizo and egg and a hot chilli burritos, both kick ass. Her green salsa is incredible, probably the best I have ever had but it super hot so eat with caution.
The next day a short 25 mile drive north to Fort Davis. We decided to camp in town rather than the park this time as it had some cool looking buildings. The camped in the middle of town $12 for the evening. At the local salon you can get a soda from the old fashioned soda stream but we opted for a huge Sunday. Visit Fort Davis, it’s an interesting walking tour of the old buildings, I especially liked learning about the old hospital treatments and buffalo soldiers. I found out that buffalo soldiers got their name as from native americans who saw the black soldiers afro hair and that is matched the tufted of hair on top of a buffalos head. The Fort Davis is sate park is 3 miles from the town and after 5pm the office is shut so could not pay the $6 entrance fee. There is 9 miles of trails, which we didn’t have time to do but we did have time to drive up the scenic road and watch the sunset. Also on top of the hill you can collect gems (which I plan to make jewellery from) That Are just lying n the floor amongst the rocks. From here we drove to the McDonald Obseravtory for the Friday night ‘star party’. Unfortunately it was a bit cloudy by we were able to look through the telescopes at Saturn, the moon and some other stars. The staff were informative and very interesting. It was a full moon that evening so on top of being cloudy could not do the constellation tour, on the plus side the moon was the biggest I have ever seen.
Heading north of Fort Davis about 35 miles leads you to Balmorea Springs. Definitely worth a stop for a dip in the refreshingly clear spring water, which has 35,000 gallos of water naturally pumped through it every day. Expect queues s to get in on the weekend so get in early. From here we drove through the town which was pretty but did not stop. There was not much to look at apart from dirt devils that look like mini tornados sweeping across the dessert.
We drove through El Paso into New Mexico and continued to Leasburg state park. The camping facilities there are great and only cost $10 for the evening. Forgetting to set our alarm to a mountain time we woke up and started to have breakfast and pack down our tent at 5:45am, the sun was beaming down so we had no idea it was so early whoops. Instead of driving up the I25 we detoured and took the 17 to the white sands dunes about 40 miles away. These were beautiful and fun to run up and down. We looped up around and met the i25. There is literally nothing of note apart from the location of the USA’s first atomic bomb detonation and their missile testing range (which I think is a cover for Area 51). New Mexico is super religious so everything is closed on Sundays apart from big corporations. 3 hours of driving later we reached Albuquerque.